Exploring My Local Area

It's been over a month since my last blog post. To tell you the truth, I was beginning to think the name 'Country Clueless' was becoming redundant as I became more cluey and less prone to rookie disasters. But that's not really the case - yesterday I managed to bugger my new ride-on mower's blades by running over a rogue tree root. But instead of stopping immediately, I continued to mow, digging up the turf and creating what now appears to be crop-circles on my back lawn ... yep, still clueless. 

Good one, Jules!

In the meantime, I've been spending some time getting to know my local area a little better, partly for recreational reasons and partly for work. My neighbour Macca took me out one afternoon to show me his favourite fishing spots, and I used the opportunity to scout for summer swimming holes and picnic spots; and I was also invited on a media trip to ... drumroll ... The Blue Mountains, part of a much-needed push to bring tourists back to the area after the recent bush fires. And I figured why not take the opportunity to stay in some exquisite heritage B&Bs, dine in some of the best restaurants in the mountains and to explore the amazing shopping strip at Leura? All within distance of zipping home to feed my cat, which suited me down to the ground. 

Here are some of the gems I discovered: 

MOUNTAIN WHISPERS 
For inspiration for home decoration and styling, look no further than the four properties gracing the luxurious Mountain Whispers collection. Lovingly restored and decorated by the irrepressible Lorraine Allanson, each of these gorgeous heritage mountains homes reflects the 'golden era' of the Blue Mountains, with no detail overlooked. 

What started out a personal project has now taken over Lorraine's life, with her vision - to create unique, self-contained accommodation where travellers can enjoy hotel pampering in a homely environment - rewarded with a plethora of hospitality gongs. 

Lorraine's original renovation project was the grand old dame, Varenna, situated opposite the railway line on Station Street, Leura. This stately Edwardian home was built in 1906 and features a formal lounge/dining room, a fully functional kitchen, two bathrooms and three generous-sized bedrooms that can accommodate six. Each room is a treasure-trove of period furniture, with elaborate chandeliers, flocked wallpaper, oriental rugs and heavy drapes all adding to the olde-worlde ambience. 

Varenna at Leura

The glorious main bedroom at Varenna

Unlike other bed and breakfasts where guests are at the mercy of their hosts, Lorraine rents out the entire house, giving her guests the utmost of privacy whilst having every luxury - from soft fluffy robes and Egyptian cotton sheets, to a fridge stocked with bacon, eggs and vine-ripened tomatoes - on hand. 

A recent addition to Varenna's charms is a day spa located inside a converted garage; but trust me, this is no ordinary man cave! With a feature gas fire, glorious chandelier, sexy red tones and dim lighting, it's a oestregen-filled haven for massages, facials and makeup sessions - the perfect place to enjoy a girl's weekend, hen's night or a romantic break with a special someone. 

Varenna's day spa

While Varenna is the most elaborate of Lorraine's cottages, the others all have their charms which appeal to different tastes. Leura Rose is an inviting, classic Blue Mountains weatherboard house with a killer verandah for outdoor work and play; the popular Strawberry Patch is cute and intimate, best suited to couples; while The Gatsby near Echo Point is decorated in Art Deco style. 

While all the houses are self-contained, Lorraine is happy to arrange an in-house chef to whip up a special meal for a special occasion. We were fortunate enough to to be treated to the culinary talents of local boy Martin Wrighton of Matunga's Personal Chef Services, for a night of delicious indulgences served up in the most charming of locations. 

www.mountainwhispers.com.au 

LEURA GARAGE 
There's another converted garage in Leura that's causing a buzz - Leura Garage, a Darlinghurst-style casual dining restaurant that has brought a slice of city cool to the mountains. 

As the name suggests, this was once a filthy working motor mechanics workshop; and some features from these days have been retained such as the rough-hewn walls, wooden tresses and the car hoist (now a very impressive wine holder). Spanners and tools have been embedded into the concrete floor, tyres sit atop cupboards, while rusting mufflers are a feature of the bar. 

The old hoist is now a wine cellar!

The food is as fresh as the decor is grungy, with pots of herbs and garden greens gracing the shelves. Other produce is bought from a Kanimbla Valley farmer, local organic meat breeders or from the local Blackheath Grower's Markets (my favourites) - so you know it's gonna be tasty! 

Totally yummy!

Hugely popular with locals and visitors, Leura Garage doesn't take reservations (except on the communal table) - on weekends you might have to sit it out at the bar while you wait for a table to become available. Which isn't such a bad thing, with yummy cocktails and locals wines from Mudgee and Orange on offer. However, if I have one bugbear with this place, it's that it's not open in the mornings - if you require a coffee fix, you'll have to go elsewhere!

www.leuragarage.com.au 

JOSOPHAN'S FINE CHOCOLATES 
It didn't take me long to discover that Leura is a one-stop shopping strip, particularly when it comes to quirky gifts, antiques, retro clothing and homewares. 

But not being a chocoholic, I'd never called into Josophan's Fine Chocolate shop ... until this particular visit. Now, unfortunately, I've become a chocoholic, and it's become a staple on my shopping trips. 

That's how good this chocolate is - it's even made a convert of these savoury-preferring taste buds. 

The handmade - nay, hand-crafted - chocolates here are simply to die for, with amazing, mouth-watering concoctions such as Mango and chilli (my favourite), Mayan chilli (a blast from hell!), peanut butter cups, honey and saffron and basil and lime. 

Josophan's handcrafted chocolates melt in your mouth

Each delicious mouthful is made from luscious fair trade dark Belgian chocolate, with fresh herbs and flavours, no preservatives and creamy ganache fillings. 

Josophan's master chocolatier Nick Hardwidge enjoys his job - clearly!

Oh my ... so damn delicious, I can't begin to tell you! Unfortunately, the hand-made chocs only have a 7-day shelf life, so you really need to consume them in one fell swoop... 

www.josophans.com.au 

THE EVERGLADES 
This glorious National Trust property is one of Leura's hidden secrets and an absolute treasure that encapsulates the grandeur and majesty of the Upper Blue Mountains. Overlooking Jamieson Valley and boasting its own private waterfall and 12.5 acres of mature mountain gardens, this is a place to wander, explore, have a picnic lunch and get lost in time. 

The rambling house was designed and built in the 1930s as a weekend retreat for businessman Henri Van de Velde, and although it's been neglected in the past, the Trust is currently restoring this Art Deco gem. 

Cherry tree garden

But its the garden that inspires me - designed by master landscaper Paul Sorensen, it's like a larger, slightly better-tended version of my own Enchanted Garden, with nooks and crannies revealing many moods, seasonal colour and pure floral poetry. 

Everglade's own waterfall

I can't wait until the annual Shakespeare festival held in the grounds during January - looking up ticket information as we speak ... 

The garden stage at Everglades

www.everglades.org.au

Big Girls Toys

It's been a huge week at the Enchanted Garden, in terms of fulfilling country dreams. Hot on the heels of the fire crisis (during which I was NEVER in any real danger!), it soon became clear that in order to survive my relocation to the bush, I really had to invest in two essentials - a ride-on mower, and a fire pump. 

As it turned out, both were purchased from the power tools shop in Lithgow. The bloke who had been doing my lawns told me about a good-value secondhand mower that had just been traded in; I went straight out there on his advice and put a deposit on it. And what a little beauty it is - red and hot and oh so sexy!

Oooh, so pretty!

In the meantime, I also talked to the shop proprietor Rod about getting a fire pump; being at the height of the fire crisis, he said they were selling like hotcakes but he'd put one aside for me and bring it down and assemble it when he had a chance. 

Rod is one of those country characters you couldn't invent - he's lived in Hartley Vale for 60 years, knows the land and everyone on it like the back of his hand, and has an opinion about everyone and everything. Once he found out I was a journalist, he let fly with a barrage of spit-filled invective, slagging off everyone from local cops to drunken volunteer firies who were "going out there pissed as newts and just getting in everyone's way." He accused them of mismanaging the fires, disregarding local advice about backburning and killing the wildlife by setting fire to bushland in an irresponsible manner. Not the usual "let's salute our brave firies" mantra that accompanied bush-fire press, for sure.

I just laughed off his rant; but the following morning, my friend Ange who works at the Tele flicked me an article about the fires in Hartley. There was my mate Rod, in all his glory, letting fly to another journo. Clearly I hadn't done my job and published his story, so he found a more pro-active ear. 

http://m.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/rfs-accused-of-ignoring-advice-as-hartley-vale-faces-onslaught-from-wind-and-fire/story-fni0cx4q-1226745284988


Anyhoo, Rod is just one of the Lithgow locals who has taken me under his wing and decided that I need to be looked after - a project, in other words. After delivering my mower, he checked out my existing irrigation system and declared that it could be replaced by the fire pump he'd deliver later that week. 

Then my neighbour Macca got in on the case, saying he'd help set up the system, repair my broken ag pipes and get my watering system working properly so I had decent pressure. Between the two of them, I now have a brilliant watering system which will not only protect me from fire, but also keep my beautiful garden hydrated. 

My awesome new fire pump

In the meantime, Macca continues to treat me as his special pet. Today I came home to find he'd been in my garden whipper-snippering what I call 'scary gully' over near the dam. He told me he'd seen a five-foot brown snake heading that direction; and rather then let me be spooked, he got in there to clear away the long grass and make it less snake-friendly. He then continued along the dam bank, de-snaking to his heart's content. 

I'm the first to admit my limitations in terms of both machinery and know-how - so I'm totally grateful for the kindness and generosity of these good-hearted country blokes. Macca has become a good buddy - he certainly likes a chat, and we've had dinner together twice this week, shared a bottle of wine and the odd cup of green tea. It's great to know an experienced bushman and handyman has my back, and that a neighbour is within hollering distance if I'm ever in trouble. I'm not scared of snakes, but I do respect them and want them to keep their distance - so any clearing Macca wants to do, he's welcome. 

He declares it's also in his interest - if my block is clear of shit, it's better for him. He's also grateful that the place wasn't bought by "ferals" (and I don't think it hurts that I'm a single, slightly clueless woman either!)

After slaving away on my dam bank this afternoon, he decided to present me with another tool to add to my collection - a whipper snipper. He then attempted to give me a lesson in snippering, which is actually harder than it looks. I found getting the goddamn thing started a big enough challenge - much to Macca's amusement.  

Macca de-snaking the dam bank

So new tools, new toys - new necessities, I should say - now grace my shed. I think my life here in the country is pretty much complete!

Line of fire

My first blog in over a month, which I had planned to be all about my mega-awesome housewarming party and introducing my friends to The Enchanted Garden.

But alas, I'm sitting here all alone, drinking the red wine meant for the party sangria after a day spent sweating it out preparing my home for bushfire. 

So what the hell happened to Spring? It seemed to go from frost to 40 degrees in a heartbeat; I came back from my trip to the US to find out all the blossoms had fallen, the grass was singed from heat and dehydration and the summer roses in full bloom. My Spring Garden Party was looking more like a Summer Bake-off ... but then it was thwarted by nature. 

Goddamn natural disasters. 

On Wednesday, as I drove into Lithgow to buy a BBQ for the party (still sitting on the front verandah, unpacked), I saw a big fire starting on the hill behind the city. It looked pretty bad, but the firies were onto it. 

The Lithgow fire from Woolies carpark

The next day I had to come down to the city for a meeting at Blue hotel in Woolloomooloo; I decided to catch the train, parking my car at Mt Vic station. And during the 2.5 hours of boredom on the train, I watched the whole drama unfold on Facebook and the WWW. 

Needless to say, I was stranded down in Sydney; I stayed at Jo's, sans clean undies and toothbrush but at least I had a bed and peace of mind. 

But knowing my kitty was starving, I headed up on Saturday morning, to one very cranky cat and a house still thankfully in tact. 

I have been one of the lucky ones. The winds have been - and continue to be - in my favour. Cass is also fine so far in his paddock, and is the best of care with experienced bushies who have been through this many times. 

I don't need to reiterate just how awful these fires have been. Over 200 properties lost. People still being evacuated. Frayed nerves aplenty. My situation is minor compared to those who have had to grab their most precious belongings and run for their lives.

My handsome boy, against a smoky sky

I've also been blessed with great neighbours. Old Macca, who has the property on the right hand side of me, lives in Sydney, but we were in constant touch during the initial drama. He finally got up here this morning, and he kindly offered to come and blow all the leaves off my shed roof and the workshop out the back. He reassured me that my place is as clear and fire-proof as possible; all we have to do now is pray the wind stays kind. 

Macca cleaning the gutters of my shed

I also met my other neighbour today for the first time. I was heading into Lithgow but had stopped on the corner of Coxs River Rd to take a photo of the Mt Vic fire. A car pulled up, and a man asked, "Are you my neighbour?" It was Richard, the reclusive chef who lives next door at The Briars function centre. We exchanged details, and he's also offered his expertise and assistance if need be. 

Mt Vic fire from the corner of Coxs River Rd

Tragedies usually bring out the best in people; and even without anything major happening, I'm experiencing the support and friendship of country folk who don't hesitate in lending a hand. My horse community has been in constant touch with me, sharing news and offering to help out if necessary; and I've even changed my harsh views about the Lithgow folk, who really do have hearts of gold. My thoughts go out to those who have lost property - many of them are doing it tough.

Needless to say, I'm so friggin' happy here ... fires and all - no regrets at becoming a country bumpkin one little bit.

The Dead Duck

Part of my country fantasy has always been to have some chooks free-ranging around my property, laying lovely brown eggs and sitting on my lap to be stroked. 

The Enchanted Garden actually has an existing chook pen/shed ... but here's the thing - it totally terrifies me. It's all ramshackle and falling down, covered in rusty wire and fallen branches, and I'm sure inside it's festering with rats and snakes. Even though I've never actually stepped foot in there, as it's my 'scary place'. 

During the week when it was incredibly windy, a sheet blew off my clothesline, and ended up getting tangled on a thorny bush behind the Scary Chook Pen. I trod through the grass tentatively, talking loudly to scare off potential snakes, before finally untangling the sheet. Then I ran away as quickly as I could from the corner of my property I like the least. 

Another reason I'm reluctant to keep chickens is that I'm worried about foxes. I know there is a fox that stalks this area (my neighbour told me so) ... and one night, as I was lying in bed (it was well after midnight), I heard a duck quacking (weird at that time of night). My neighbour keeps ducks, or it may have been one of the wild ducks that swim on the many dams around here. Anyway, I hear "quack quack quack ... SQUAWWWWWKKKKKKKKKKKK!" Then silence. Dinner time for the Incredible Mr Fox, I'd say.

Today, my brother and his family came to visit, and as usual, I got them working for their supper in the garden. At least my brother Peter worked, while the kids Lachlan, Rohan and Alicia 'supervised' and Carolyn gave design advice.

Alicia pretending to work.

Peter, who is obviously built of much braver DNA than I, decided he wanted to check out inside the Scary Chook Pen ... and when he went inside, he found the corpse of a duck. I believe this may have been the very duck I heard being murdered by Mr Fox; and judging by its state of decay (body intact, head reduced to a skull), I think Foxy may have been snacking on the body intermittently. I was of course freaked out; but Peter decided that Ducky should have a decent burial. 

Here some pics of the funeral service, with Reverend Lachlan providing the eulogy.

A serious moment for Rohan and Lachlan

RIP, Ducky!

Spring Fever

It's been a ridiculously warm week here at Little Hartley - I've barely had the fire going, and when I have, it's made the house too hot. Yep, spring is sprung in The Enchanted Garden; the deciduous plants are all abloom, and the lawn has gone nuts. So I called in the Cavalry, in the form of a neighbour with a ride-on mower to finally cut the grass back and make the property look a little less like a hovel. 

The lawns looking neat at last!

Having neat lawns has made a huge difference, and it's made me realise just how desperately I need my own ride-on mower. I used to dream about buying a nice pair of shoes, or a pretty dress; these days, I lust after mowers, mulchers and whipper snippers. Anything to make this massive job easier. 

I've decided I want the 'back paddock' completely bulldozed, apart from the trees. The shrubbery, which I've been cutting back and weeding this week is pretty blah, so I would like to lose it altogether and just have trees and lawn out the back. Which one day might be Cass' paddock. I've been working my arse off this week trying to get this area under control; still a way to go, I've just started cutting back a hedge which I really don't like and would eventually like to remove completely. It's certainly worn me out, I'm sitting here aching like you wouldn't believe! 

The front garden, meanwhile, is ablaze with colour. The crabapple tree is just magnificent, hot pink blossoms buzzing with bees. And the wisteria is starting to come out, soon it will be a purple picture - my pride and joy. 

The gorgeous crabapple in bloom

Cass also has Spring Fever. On Friday, he decided he didn't want to be caught, running away from me in a merry game as soon as I got within a metre of him. His young chestnut girlfriend, who is skittish at the best of times, just encouraged him; soon all five horses in the paddock were galloping up and down, anywhere but near me. 

I couldn't help but smile at Cass' antics - he looks so handsome prancing around, shaking his blonde mane and tail, despite being an annoying shithead. In the end, my horsey pal Michelle had to come down and help me, with Cass finally succumbing to a bucket of bread and allowing himself to be caught. 

I took Cass out on the trails three times over the weekend; yesterday we went bush-bashing up a mountain, managing to get lost about 300 metres up a ridge. Then Cass got tangled in a fallen fence; I totally freaked out, thinking he was going to panic and slash his legs; but he stood there like an angel, trusting me completely as I untangled his feet and released him from the wire. My heart was pounding like crazy - think I was more scared than he was. 

Think there may be a bond forming between me and my pony ...

Bonding with my horse

I've been a little quiet of late, partly because I've been busy (I do work, you know!) ... and partly because, well, because country life is becoming sorta mundane now. It's not feeling nearly as bizarro as it first did, and I've even warmed to the friendly redneck locals in Lithgow. I don't even notice that they have no teeth now! 

Having said that, as spring approaches, I realise I've really bitten off more than I can chew with this garden. At this stage I don't own a mower, and it's all starting to look out of control. And however many hours I spend in the garden contributing to the bonfire pile, I know I've barely scratched the surface. Scratch being the operative word, goddamn thorn bushes! 

I've also been spending more time with my horse. In fact, this past weekend, I spent two whole days with him at a training clinic held across the way at Hartley Vale. 

The instructor was a guy called Mike Bingham, and he's a rare breed of horseman with gentle yet logical methods of getting the measure of your horse. He encourages people to see the world through the eyes of their horse - in other words, you as the rider become an extension of your mount. 

Mike's methods were particularly effective with Cass's ground work. I must admit that my pony has literally been walking all over me - I've been letting him get away with being a right bastard, blaming my inexperience as a horse owner. 

But the solution is simple - all I have to do is treat Cass as if I was another horse. If he walks right on top of me, back into him; if he refuses to lead (which he often does when he's feeling lazy), get up him. If he pins his ears back at me in distaste, let him have it back. It's not about force, it's just about letting him know who the dominant mare is - ie, me! 

Cass learning a bit of respect from Mike!

Mike also has some interesting theories about riding. For instance, to stop your horse clean, RIDE him into it, using your legs. Then, when you release the pressure on your calves, your horse should immediately stop. We were all stunned to see how this worked, with each and every horse. 

I also learnt about head and neck carriage, and how every movement of the horse is dependent on that part of the body. Until he gets his neck right, he can't get his back-end right. 

All technical stuff... but it was an awesome experience, I learnt a stack, and I think Cass finally has a bit of respect for me!

My B&B

I've become quite the hostess with the mostest since I've had a place to call my own. I've never really been able to entertain much in the past, as there has been room to have anyone stay over, let alone come for dinner. And now my pleas to "make sure you visit me!" are being heeded, my house has become a veritable B&B. 

In the past week I've had a revolving door of wonderful guests, starting with my daughter Jo, then Farmer Joe, then my friend Sam, and finally capping off a weekend with my sister Kerrie and brother-in-law Jim. It's been great, though my cooking skills have been somewhat put to the test. I'm finally mastering the art of poached eggs, though I must apologise for nearly burning my poor sister's mouth off with my extra-hot Thai green curry... 

Sam and her red wellies - they match the wheelbarrow!

But don't think just because you are my guest you get a free lunch. Uh-uh, no way - here in the Enchanted Garden you have to work for your keep. I sent poor Sam out into my garden while I was doing other work - in sub-zero temperatures, mind - while my poor sister and brother-in-law were set to work transforming my enormous, and very overgrown vegetable patch. 

Kerrie and Jim working for their keep

After clearing away mummified corn stalks, ginormous rhubarb and over-zealous dill, it appears only one healthy vegetable remains from the previous garden incarnation - spring onions. They love it, and have sprouted everywhere, even outside the actual garden in the grass. Only I can't think of a more useless vegetable to have a major crop of. 

Spring onions, anyone?

Anyone have a recipe where these tasty morsels from my own garden can be utilised?

And PS - anyone is more than welcome to come and stay here. Seriously. But gardening gloves and gumboots are recommended...